Angel’s Gate Riesling

In the category of “noticed on the shelf but ignored for no good reason” is the Angel’s Gate Riesling. I will be the first to give my wife full credit for picking this one out. She’s not a big Riesling fan, but knows that it’s my favourite grape. So imagine my surprise when she arrived home last night bearing a cold bottle of the Angel’s Gate 2004 Riesling (Ontario VQA).

I will confess to being a bit set in my ways when it comes to Riesling. If I want a dry Riesling, I’ll buy a fine bottle from Ontario’s Henry of Pelham or BC’s Cedar Creek. If I want a bit of sweetness, I’ll go for the delicious Cave Springs Off-Dry or (my favourite) the Vineland Semi-Dry (both from Ontario). If I feel like something different, I’ll try any number of fine German Rieslings. And because of my habits, the Angel’s Gate has just never crossed my palate before.

But this was oh so good. The nose was classic Riesling, with lots of minerals and citrus in evidence. The first sip tasted almost sweet in a floral kind of way, but quickly dried out with a long and crisp blast of minerals and lime juice. There was plenty of acidity in the mouth too, but it was balanced by some very rich floral and citrus flavours. I had this on its own, but it would also be perfect with an order of takeout Indian food from one of our fine local restaurants (my preferences would be Ivory).

At $14.63 plus tax at your neighbourhood MLCC, it’s a bit pricier than some other Rieslings. But I’d say its worth the price. Angel’s Gate is a small boutique winery, and I’ve heard very good things about their work before. And this vintage is already sold out at the winery – so act fast if you’re interested.

D’Arenberg Laughing Magpie

I see that today’s “Uncorked” column in the Winnipeg Free Press makes mention of my blog. So a big thank-you to them for the publicity and I’d like to welcome to any new readers who might be dropping by here for the first time. I also enjoy reading “Uncorked” every Wednesday, and I think that the Free Press made a wise move in hiring a new wine writer.

Anyways, moving right along to the reason we’re all here, I have some notes on a tasty little wine that I picked up in Ontario a few weeks back. It’s the D’Arenberg “Laughing Magpie” Shiraz/Viognier, which is also available at your local MLCC for $27.78.

The blend may seem unusual, but it’s more common than you might expect. Both red and white grapes are common blending partners from the Rhone Valley, where Viognier (and other white grapes) are often added to red blends. For example, wines from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation can legally contain up to thirteen different grapes, of which six are white. And wines from the Côte-Rôtie region of the Northern Rhone are a blend of Syrah and up to 20%Viognier. So the Laughing Magpie – while seemingly a new blend from those crazy Aussies - actually has deep roots in Rhone Valley traditions.

The wine is a bit lighter than your typical Australian Shiraz, and shows off rich floral aromas. In the mouth, it displayed some tannins, although less than you’d expect. It was incredibly smooth and rich, with lighter fruit flavours (blueberry and some blackberry) rounded out by a hint of something very different, maybe fresh ginger? It’s certainly not a fruit bomb! Nor is it simply a clone of a Côte-Rôtie. D’Arenberg has done something unique here.

The finish was long and smooth and I was sorry to see the end of this one. To put it simply, this is an amazing wine and is highly recommended. I served it up last night with a classic Manitoba pairing – homemade perogies in a wild mushroom sauce. It worked really well. But this wine is so good that I would pair it with just about anything.

Actually, everything I’ve ever tried from D’Arenberg has been amazing. The MLCC and some of the private stores carry a range of their products. Most are priced around $20 and up, but are well worth it. Earls sells their entry-level (but still very tasty) “Stump Jump” range by the glass for a reasonable price, although I don’t think it’s available at the MLCC or any of the private stores.

If you liked this wine, I can also recommend the Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz-Viognier, which is available through the private wine stores for around $22.

“The Cork Grove” Castelao/Shiraz

A neat little wine from Portugal, the Cork Grove Castelao/Shiraz blend is mostly (65%) Castelao with some (35%) Shiraz blended in for balance. I’ll be the first to admit that I have never tried Castelao before (apparently it’s a regional grape native to southern Portugal). For that matter, after some bad experiences with cheap Portuguese reds in my early wine-drinking days, I’ve avoided Portuguese wines altogether.

Turns out that my earlier prejudices were my loss, as this is a great little wine for the price. There’s nothing fancy, just lots of pure fruit enjoyment. The nose showed a bit jammier than I would expect from a European wine, but in the mouth, it was very tasty with a nice long finish. There weren’t a lot of tannins there, but there were enough to make this a nice match with food. In fact, I’d probably be happiest to serve it with food, perhaps an oilier fish or a richer meat dish (lamb stew anyone?). I plan on making this one a house wine.

Surprisingly enough, this wine held its own over time. It was still holding out well nearly two days after I first opened it. Well worth the $12 and change it will set you back. You can find it at your local MLCC, although be aware that it seems to be placed in the Fine Wine section as opposed to the general listing shelves.

In other news, the Kenaston Wine Market has reopened its doors after a long-overdue renovation. It looks very sharp indeed even though the renovations aren’t quite finished. They are the third of the “big three” private stores in Winnipeg to undergo a facelift. Unlike the other two though, they have chosen to stay in the same location, and have done a very nice job of freshening up their look. Be sure to check them out.

Turning Leaf Pinot Noir

Feeling adventurous (or cheap - take your pick) I bought a bottle of the Gallo Turning Leaf Pinot Noir. Not expecting much, I was pleasantly surprised. For $10.99, I found some actual varietal character. There was a definite hint of good old Pinot funk on the nose and the mouth had the classic cherry taste I associate with Pinot Noirs from the lighter side of the spectrum. There was even a hint of tannins on the (admittedly short) finish. It went perfectly with a Greek pizza from Pizza Hotline as I watched the evening news.

However, I think I’ll save this one for summer. It’s not a winter wine. but twenty minutes in the fridge and it will be the perfect patio pounder for those hot days of July (which seem so far away right now). As nice as it was, it still doesn’t match up to the Cono Sur Pinot Noir, although it was nice for a change of scenery.

For $11 and change, it’s worth it. And it used a Stelvin closure (a fancy way of saying screwcap).

Wine markups

Wow. Apologies for how long it has taken me to post here again. The funny little thing called a “day job” got in the way and before I knew it, a month had passed. Anyways, on to the important stuff. First off, I’m sorry that this post is a rant rather than a wine review. I have had lots of excellent wine lately, but I thought this post was a bit more timely. I know I’ve ranted about markups on wine lists before, but I’m still surprised by my recent experience.

I had dinner at the Velvet Glove on Wednesday night. The food was excellent and the service was good. I’ve never had a bad meal there, and I would rank it as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, although not quite on the level of some of the more innovative smaller restaurants. It’s not cheap, but you do get what you pay for.

However, I was really surprised by their wine list. Last time I was there, it was reasonably priced. But somewhere in the last year they have decided to mark their wines up by almost 300%! Sure, they have an excellent and wide selection of wines. Yes, they have rare vintages and unique bottles coming out of the wazoo. But is it necessary to charge such outrageous prices? Case in point: Seven Deadly Zins, which most of you know I’m a big fan of. I can get it in the store for $25 before taxes. So why would I want to pay $64 for a bottle at the Velvet Glove?

And yes, I’ve heard all of the arguments restaurants use to justify high wine markups. I agree with most of them, and I don’t mind paying more for wine in a restaurant. But I have my limits, and this is a bit much. Same goes for the Pirramimma Petit Verdot. $29 in the store. $72 on their list. Thanks, but I’ll stick to Mise next time I want a first-class meal with a good glass (or three) of wine. Now that’s a well-priced wine list (although I am a bit biased!)

Anyways, I still think the Velvet Glove is an excellent restaurant (even if it does look like a set for “Days of Our Lives”). The food is first class and the service is generally excellent (although our poor waiter was having a rough night). But I am not impressed with their wine prices. Perhaps they should reconsider their markup. I’ve always argued that people will buy more wine if it’s well-priced. If a wine costs customers (and the restaurant) $15 in the store, would you rather sell 3 bottles at $30 or one at $45? Is a $30 profit on one bottle better than a $15 profit per bottle on three bottles?